Sunday, May 07, 2006

Chicken Wisdom

It is awfully hard to be mad, or even indignant, with the world if your day involves a roast chicken. Particularly if the day also excludes polite company so that you can stand in the kitchen hovering over the roasting pan picking with your fingers at the too hot chicken fresh from the oven, wincing at the hot flesh but knowing that the reward is the freed hot oysters dragged through a bowl of aioli and popped in your mouth.

Periodically I've run into a well meaning article on roast chicken that recommends roasting the bird and then not consuming the skin so that your meal is healthier. This is American puritanical tomfoolery about food at its absolute most offensive. Can you imagine: pulling a bird with its skin crisp and brown and gold and perfect for peeling off and letting your mouth drown its flavor and ...leaving it behind. So stupid. And a prime example of how something "good for you" is not good for anything about you.

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